It's peculiar in a thousand prismed ways: I'm a barker and a biter; a scrapper and a fighter. I smoke too many cigarettes and sometimes have the heaviest whisky breath in a bar.

They filled my head with Delhi Belly and bottled water and mosquitos the size of hummingbirds. Funnily enough, beyond the urban myths (and, most importantly, beyond myself) I found something else on the subcontinent.